Hey There 2010!
I return to writing with tales of South Korea. And honestly it’s not a long or in depth tale. I can pretty much sum up the trip in 4 words: Eat, Shop, Drink, Repeat.
Obviously we did some cultural things and “saw stuff” but honestly, from what I can tell there really isn’t much to see in terms of historical or cultural icons. Korea has been taken over by so many different groups in its history that pretty much everything is destroyed. I hadn’t realized how new the current culture in Korea is. On the plane over I was reading things like, “the current writing system was officially implemented in 1992.” Um, WHAT?? How crazy is that? Apparently it’s one of the best writing systems in the world in terms of pronunciation or something like that. I actually had the hang of a few of the symbols before we left.
So, on to the “adventure.” We left Fukushima at about 10 am, got into Sendai airport around 11:30. It was awesome to fly out of Sendai, SOOO convenient. We were in Incheon Airport by about 3:30. We took a bus into Seoul. First impressions…um, not as “new world” as I thought it would be. Our bus driver and pretty much all drivers were erratic much like any other Asian nation. Honestly, it looked like China. I know, they’re separate and all, but it looked a lot like China to me. We got dropped off at Seoul station and then got tickets for the KTX train (Korea’s Bullet train) down to Busan/Pusan (at the other end of the country).

A map
Seoul Station was where my idea that South Korea would be like a middle ground between China and Japan was shattered. While Seoul station is gigantic and very modern, the mass amounts of homeless people sitting inside the building and smoking kinda made me realize that there wasn’t really going to be anything “super Japanese” about Korea. Also, soldiers EVERYWHERE. We found out later that after finishing high school everyone has to do either a year in the military or two years in the police force. But ya, after grabbing Burger King (they spoke English very well) we were on a train for Busan.

Seoul Square - just outside the station
We got into Busan around 10 or so and met Shannon and Clancy without any difficulty. Weird Korean fact…we bought tickets and got on the train without having to show them to anyone, as well, when we got off…there was no one to show our tickets to. We did have assigned seating and people were walking up and down the aisles checking, but still, at no point did I have to prove that I had paid to be on that train. Weird right?
Seeing as it was December 25th at about 10pm, we promptly went out for drinks in Clancy’s area. Where he seemed to know just about EVERY single person that worked at the bar. I learned eventually that Clancy being Clancy, drinks a lot and hence, knows people. It was fun though.
Dave and Shannon’s apartment was pretty nice and for some reason they let us sleep in their bed and they slept on the spare bed/couch like thing in their living room. If it were me…no way guests would be sleeping in my bed. I even made my Mom sleep on a futon when she came to Japan. But ya, that was pretty sweet.
Full Day 1 or Day 2, depending on how you look at it. We hit a market first. Have I mentioned that it was COLD there? Cuz, it was. Really COLD. Not Canada cold or anything but still like -8 or so…meaning, colder than Fukushima. Why did Mo and I go on a vacation, in the winter, to a place that was COLDER than where we currently live? We definitely asked ourselves that question quite a few times. Anyway, we spent the day shopping as you do and then at night headed out for drinks…as you do. I wasted no time in immediately buying 2 pairs of sunglasses, I think within the first 5 minutes of being in the first shopping area. The markets gave me reason number 2 that Korea is like China; outdoor stalls. They were everywhere selling food or clothes or sunglasses or whatever. Just tables set up in the middle of streets with stuff all over them. There were big western stores all over the place too, but it didn’t matter where you went, there were street vendors.

Full Day 2 or Day 3…Let’s just say December 27th, we headed to a national park in Busan for a leisurely walk to a shrine that the Lonely Planet said was a bit difficult to find.

We hit a tramway close to the top of a mini-mountain and then figured it wouldn’t be that far from there. About an hour and a half to two hours later, after walking through mud, up and down some pretty steep sections of paths, having to ask directions like a zillion times. We arrived…at the foot of a really really steep hill up to the temple (sorry, I’m writing this at work and don’t remember the names of places right now, I’ll put them up in the links to pictures). Upon our arrival at this temple my initial feeling was um…whoopdeedoo. That is until we walked past what looked to be the main building and discovered these gigantic rocks like 30m tall that had huge Buddhas carved into them and stairs that led up between these two rocks. It was fricken amazing. Hopefully I’ve put some pics below. These Buddhas were HUGE, check out the woman praying in one of the pics below to see what I mean.




Do you see how tiny that woman looks...granted, she is a tiny woman.
After that, Mo wasn’t feeling too hot so we went for drinks and then headed back to the apartment where she could try to sleep off the cold that she felt coming on. We grabbed pizza and just chilled out. Sidebar: Where the Wild Things are is a crap movie. We shut it off. I don’t remember the Wild Things being as emo or as moody as the movie portrays them to be. And the kid is a little ass.
The next day we went temple hunting again (Dec 28th). Our guides took us to a sweet sweet temple right on the coast called Haedong Yongkung Temple. It wasn’t even in the Lonely Planet and I do NOT understand why. It was right on the coast, built in along the rocks and was really really cool. The weird things about temples in Korea, they all have kanji or Chinese characters because they’re old and that’s what the Koreans used to use as a language. How weird would it be, going to you know, a cultural/religious place of your own people and having to read signs off to the side that tell you what is written on said cultural/religious thing? Sooo weird right? It was kinda nice for me and Mo though, as we could actually read some of it so I at least felt like we were contributing something.


Clancy and Shannon pretty much led us around like children for the whole trip. Which was um, amazing. Although it wasn’t too bad as EVERYONE spoke English. Not everyone as in every single person. But pretty much any person that had to interact with people, spoke English. That was kind of nice, but made me feel bad, always putting the onus on the other person to be able to speak my native language. On the flip side…no one spoke Japanese.
On our way out of the temple, we passed a stall that just had, well, tree branches everywhere and Clancy then exclaimed, “Well, you’ve gotta try this.” This was my first and only experience with um, “tree juice” I guess? Basically, they grind up branches, I’m assuming of a specific tree and then, you drink the liquid. It was horrible. It tasted like they had covered the tree in dirt first and left the dirt in whatever you want to call the liquid that came out. I pretty much drank dirty tree. Gross.
After that we hit a popular beach…that’s popular in the summer. It was pretty, but it was cold. Then we rocked some good old fashioned T.G.I. Fridays! It was delicious. Korea definitely gets added points for having western restaurants everywhere. MMMM Burgers. We then hit a gigantic mall for shopping and then proceeded to get very drunk at a bar where we were the ONLY patrons until 4am.
The next day, when Dave woke us up at some ungodly hour was when I realized that: 1) Unlike my friends in Japan, 1) Clancy can drink just as much as I can and 2) He can do it in such a way that allows him to get up after 5 hours of sleep and be good to go. This was a common theme throughout the trip as we did pretty much drink every night. Clancy is a machine.

The 29th we grabbed coffee at this cool little coffee shop down the street from Dave and Shannon’s place. The owner spoke English really well and was a friend of Dave’s. The coffee shop was REALLY COOL. I got a bunch of video of it, I think. Like I said, I was a bit hungover. Next, although the pictures that I’m referencing to write this don’t show it, I figure it’s safe to assume we went shopping. Followed directly by…drinks, which were followed by Korean BBQ, which in no way can be healthy, but it was delicious.
On the 30th we headed up to Seoul on the KTX. Clancy and Shannon had booked this ok little hostel. They said the one they usually stay at was booked but as hostels go, it was decent enough. It was weird that the shower, toilet and washing machine were all in the same small room. I can now say that I’ve showered inches away from a washing machine. The cool thing about the hostel was that we got to experience heated floors. There’s a Korean word for it by I forget it. I think it starts with an “O.” They were really cool and kept the room and our clothes for the next day nice and toasty.
After checking into our hostel we went and got some kimbop down the street. Kimbop is like a quick Korean food. I assume it’s kinda like grabbing a burger from McDonald’s. You can get one quick or actually go to a restaurant and have a better one made for you. So, we went to a kimbop restaurant. Clancy then used his stellar Korean skillz to decipher the menu and order us a bunch of stuff. Kimbop is pretty much maki rolls (you know the rolls you can get a sushi place that are wrapped in seaweed and have rice and some kind of raw fish in the middle) except better, cause they have meat and cheese and vegetables inside. FRIGGIN AWESOME. I should at this point discuss Korean cuisine a bit. First thing, everything is spicy. Not being a fan of spicy things a bit the bullet on multiple occasions and just powered through. It was all really good. Second thing, regardless of what you order, you get a million side dishes. Kimchi is served with everything along with a plethora of other little dishes that you can kinda pick at as you wait for your food or as you’re eating your main dish. It was nice cause you never know what you’re gonna get and you get to try a bunch of different things.

Kimbop
Apres le kimbop, we then ventured to the COEX mall on the south side of Seoul. It is reportedly the biggest underground mall in the world and the most confusing mall in the world, I might add. We rocked around there for, well, hours upon hours. Dave and I spent most of our time following the ladies through store after store. You may be wondering, “Brent, why so much shopping?” Well, let me tell you inquisitive reader…Korea is mafackin CHEAP. They have the same stuff we have in Japan as well as a plethora of western stores we don’t have as well as a yen to won exchange rate that made everything pretty much free. An average beer was no more than 3000 won. That’s about 240 yen or about $2.60 Canadian. So, uhh, it was awesome. If I was a tiny Asian man, I would have come back with more than, 2 hats, a sweater and 3 pairs of sunglasses. In total Mo spent 5 hours (3 hours one day and 2 hours the last day) at Forever 21 and spent, wow, I don’t even wanna know how much money, BUT think of how much fun that whole adventure was for me!!! Anyway, after shopping at the COEX mall where I bought 2 Korean masks we hit up…T.G.I. Fridays for some good old western food and obviously…drinks.
The next day was the 31st so we made the first venture to Forever 21, 4 floors of girly apparel with a tiny little corner of guy’s stuff. Dave and I saw each other on occasion but for the most part we were leashed to our lady friends forced to give opinions on whatever they had discovered in the racks and racks of clothing. After a few hours of shopping we headed back to the hostel around 3 in order to get ready for the evening’s shenanigans. There was no real plan in place. So we decided just to wing it. We headed to the university district of Seoul where everything is supposed to be “bumpin’”. But, as Korea is a mostly Buddhist nation, New Years is like the western Christmas, a time for family gatherings and love etc etc. So, it wasn’t really “bumpin’” anywhere. Oh and did I mention that it was -18 without the windchill? Cuz it was. So, we pretty much dove into the first ok place we could find in order to plan out what we were doing. We ended up in Reggae – A Japanese Bar around 10pm. When we got in, I figured, ok, “Reggae – A Japanese Bar” in Seoul, a popular tourist destination for Japanese people, will definitely have an English or Japanese menu so we can grab some quick food and move on. Um, I was mistaken and the menu written in Korean referring to Japanese dishes proved a bit too much for Clancy to want to deal with, which I totally understand. So we grabbed hot cups of sake and tried to plan something out. I looked out the window and there it was in all itss glory…. HO BAR! Right across the street.

This was decided was the place we would spend the last moments of 2009 and the first of 2010. It turned out to be a decent place. It wasn’t packed, but there were people there and they had food, which we had not had in awhile. Funny thing though…even in Korea, they had New Years Eve prices going. So everything was, a little bit more than usual and there were a ton of “sets.” Around about 11 after we had eaten, Dave and I decided it was indeed shot time as we were nowhere close to where we should be on New Years Eve at 11pm. Funny thing though, at HO BAR on New Years Eve, you can’t just get 2 shots of tequila. You either get 5 with a plate of nachos and a plate of frozen peach slices for about $40 CDN OR 10 shots and peaches for $40 CDN. Well, obviously, we had eaten already, so…10 shots it was. By 11:50, the shots were gone and we were then handed…tequila shots for New Years. As the ladies did not want to partake in the lovely beverage, Dave and I decided it was only right to help them out and not only drink ours but theirs. Midnight struck, there was a tiny love-in at our table and we found ourselves 7 shots deep each. A beautiful start to 2010. Around 4am, after multiple jagerbombs and failed attempts at teaching Dave to dance we decided to head back to the hostel.
10am the following morning…a knock at the door and who is it but Clancy all bright and chipper. HA JEEZ! Mo and I sent Comandante Clancy away for a bit and got up in the early afternoon as normal human beings do when they’ve been on a bender the evening prior. When we did emerge as undead eventually do. We were taken to this sweet little tea shop that was really cool. Apparently it’s very big with tourists but it was down a random alleyway and it wasn’t too busy when we got there. The cool thing about this place. Birds. Live birds, like finches and swallows I believe of all different colours flying around freely. On top of that, the tea was THA BOMB. Easily the best tea I’ve had. We each swapped and tried each other’s and they were all AMAZING.



We then walked around the market that the tea house was located in. It was a market full of Korean stuff. So, it was less like the western style shopping areas that we had been to and more like a full out Asian style market. I bought some phone charm things for the once class that I teach every Friday and my English club and Mo bought a bunch of stuff for her co-workers. Look at us being so Japanese and buying omiyage.
Then, with the shopping component of our day over, we obviously went to eat. This being Clancy and Shannon’s last night we went for Korean food as most of the Korean restaurants did NOT have English menus, so it would be the last chance for Mo and I to eat Korean food. I have no clue what it was called, but what we had that night was amazing. Rice, mixed with mochi sticks (like pounded rice sticks, that’s the best I can explain it, think of a cheese stick pretty much), with chicken and cheese all mixed in. IT WAS AWESOME! Clancy made it all foreigner special getting 4 times the normal amount of cheese. Our waitress actually tried to argue with him saying that we probably only needed two. Clancy was adamant and eventually she gave in. All of it was cooked right on our table in the middle and our waitress pretty much did everything, although it was pretty evident that she was not happy to be cooking the abomination that Clancy had ordered.

We went to a Beer Hall (Bier Halle) near our hostel soon after that for…drinks as you do. Although Mo and I are not the drinking machines that Clancy and Shannon are, so we opted for orange juice and coke, respectively. My coke came with a tiny tiny glass, because, only children would be drinking coke at a beer hall. It made me feel manly.
The next morning (Jan 2nd) we went to Namdaemun Market and obviously, shopped before Clancy and Shannon hit their train back to Busan. This was the only place I spoke Japanese at all. In an attempt to get directions to a big gate that was around the area, it was clear that the Korean guy did not speak English well and I had heard him speaking Japanese to some tourists, so I got us directions to this “big gate.” Unfortunately, a crazy person had burned down this old old old gate about 2 months ago, cuz he was crazy. And it was under construction. Lameness. Oh and in this market, there was some ginseng, EEE, I, EEE, I, OH. Koreans are crazy for this thing and sell gigantic bottles of the root. It’s nuts.

After we ditched Clancy and Shannon (it was a heartfelt goodbye) we felt the need to take pictures of this.

Dokdo is a collection of rocks off the coast of Korea. Apparently, there is a dispute with the Japanese over who is in fact the rightful owner of these rocks. God dammit Japan, what country are you not in a land dispute with. This ad right here was at least 20 to 30 feet tall. The picture doesn’t look like it but it was GIGANTIC on the 2nd floor of Seoul Station and there were copies of it to either side in Korean, Japanese and Chinese. Apparently Korea likes it some rocks. Also notice the “EAST Sea” opposed to the Sea of Japan. Asia has some issues.
After we dropped the dead weight of Clancy and Shannon we were free from the reign of terror they had imposed upon us and ventured out into Seoul. (Just kidding) First we hit up Jungno (or something like that) park and saw some old temple like things and from there we went to Changgyeonggung Palace. Both of these were really cool and gigantic open spaces pretty much in the middle of Seoul. Although they were separate parks, they were pretty much one big park and it took us awhile to get through all of it. See the links to pictures if you want to see all of them. Mo and I both went a little crazy with the pictures because we had been to so few cultural spots.

Then we went to a Heunginjumun Gate, which had not been burned down and was in the center of a huge intersection. It was cool enough, but you couldn’t walk inside it, so that kinda sucked. I’d like to say a big thanks to the Sri Lankan guy that after I took his picture he took our picture in front of this gate, leaving the gate out of the picture completely, so it looks like we’re having our picture taken in front of a wall. Not just one time, but both times he took our picture. Thank you sir.

With 3 cultural areas out of the way in one afternoon, we then, shopped, for boots, for mo…it was…awesome. We rocked some beers at the Beer Hall from the night previous as we had recovered enough and then went back to the hostel to sleep.

Jan. 3rd was our last day in Seoul and in South Korea for the most part. So, we split the day between things I wanted to do and things Mo wanted to do. First, we did things I wanted to do, which as you will see were WAAAY COOLER.
We started at a Shamanist temple (Inwangsa Guksadang), well, we didn’t start there, we hiked a HUGE hill to get up there. Korea, aside from being a largely Buddhist country as well as having a ton of Christians, has its own native religion referred to as Shamanism, which I thought was a bit odd. It doesn’t have its own name like “Shinto” or “Hinduism” or anything? Shamanism seems so generic. Anyway, I thought the temple would be a bit different or something but, it pretty much looked like a Buddhist temple. As well, the Koreans that were there did NOT seem happy to see us there AT ALL. Come to think of it, most Koreans did not seem happy that we were there throughout our trip. Instead of the inquisitive stares that we get from Japanese people we were met with the stink eye from pretty much everyone outside of the tourist/service industry. It was weird. I mean, maybe it’s a blanket statement for me to say something like that and maybe I’ve been in Japan too long but I did not feel overly welcome or anything.
The top of the mountain/hill offered a wicked view of Seoul and if you want to read about the Temple we went to, I took a picture of the explanation and it’ll be in album #2 of the Korea trip.

The next thing I wanted to do was Jogye-sa Temple. It is the main temple of the Jogye Sect of Buddhism, which is the biggest sect of Buddhism in Korea. It was pretty cool, with a huge golden statue of Buddha in the main building that I did not take a picture of. I could have gone inside and potentially taken a picture, but I just find that in places of worship I would rather look from afar than be that idiot tourist standing at the front of a temple with a bunch of people praying behind me, while I snap pictures of the “exotic religious figure” in front of them. I friggin HATE people that do things like that. I’ve seen too many tourists/new JETs act like assholes in Shrines and Temples here, pretending to pray and pretty much making a mockery of the whole thing. I have done a few things like the jumping pictures I have in front of shrines, but never am I right in front of it or trying to pretend like I’m actually taking part in the religion and I generally make sure that no one is around.
After that we were on to Mo’s “sight” of the day, Forever 21. She realized that she still had SO MUCH MONEY LEFTOVER that a second round was definitely necessary. So, 2 hours later, she had a bunch of new stuff. I bought a sweater out of boredom. We rocked some Chinese for dinner and they had some wicked Chinese masks on the wall. A bunch were almost exactly the same as the ones that I bought except way bigger. I didn’t get pictures because it was PACKED and I felt like busting out my camera to take pictures of masks that were directly behind about 15 people would be weird. Yes, I’m a scaredy cat.
Jan. 4th was a total um, well, a clusterfuck of a day. There’s no other way to describe it. Our flight was at 10:30am so, we had to be at Incheon around 8:30am. A bus ran from right near our hostel every 20 min and took 45 min to get to Incheon. I set the alarm on my new Ipod Touch for 6am, so we could get up and have a bit of time before we hit the bus at 7. A little note to anyone using their ipod touch as an alarm: When you create an alarm time, it automatically selects pm, not am, so if you don’t change it…it won’t go off in the morning like you expect it to. So, waking up about an hour later than planned we were up and out the door in about 10 minutes to find a winter wonderland waiting for us…YAY!!! We managed to hit the bus at 7:15 and we were well on our way. Our bus took nearly 2 hours to get us to Incheon. I am not a good traveller; the prospect of missing buses, trains and especially planes freaks me RIGHT OUT. So, naturally, I’m LOSING IT at this point. I’d rather be 2 hours early than 10 min late, just in case. We get to Incheon, get in book to our plane and obviously, it’s been delayed. If you’ve seen the post prior to this, you’ve seen that Jan 4th 2010 was the biggest snow storm on record in Seoul since they started keeping records of snowfalls. Our flight was delayed without a new departure time being given. Then they started to cancel flights going to China. At this point I was like, Oh man, sleeping in the airport in Korea, this is gonna suck. Eventually we boarded and then sat on the runway for about an hour and a half before actually taking off. At least we got the hell outta there.
All in all it was a decent vacation. We didn’t do anything spectacular but it was good to catch up with Shannon and Clancy and talk to people from home that are in the same position that Mo and I are in, just in a different country. The Koreans were a little bit meaner than I assumed they would be and we quite often got death stares, which threw me off guard a bit but that could be from being in Japan for so long. The general level of English was awesome comparative to Japan and that threw me a little bit as well. I have learned that if I’m going somewhere cold, I’m gonna make sure that I’m doing something that is done in the cold like snowboarding. Otherwise, I’ll wait till it’s warm to go traveling anywhere.
Gold star if you’ve actually read this far down. I’m halfway down on the 8th page in Microsoft Word and after I add pictures into the body this’ll be well over 11 pages, extra points if you watch the video and have a look at the 2 albums that I’ve linked. Another video will go up soon, but I’ve just picked up a new video editing program and I’m trying to learn it.
Links to Albums
The vid below has been made totally in Adobe Premiere Elements v7 by clicking 3 buttons. That’s it, 3 buttons. I imported all my vids, selected a theme, hit next and bam, you see the final product below. How nuts is that eh??? I’ll try to make the vid that I actually edit myself as good as the one below. Oh and new camera, so everything is in higher quality. Enjoy. (it should be here in the next few days)
Peace,
B










